Beyond the Edge Beyond the Bar: 13.13 Christchurch: Now & Again

13.A Christchurch Cathedral, 29 March 2013

When Jean and I were afforded a week’s vacation midway during our 6-month New Zealand stay, we decided we would travel to the South Island. Other than heading for Aoraki/Mt Cook National Park and Milford Sound (in Fiordland National Park), we had no particular objectives in mind. We just wanted to tour around — and by bus, so that we could cover a good deal of territory in a relaxed fashion. We booked bus transportation on the excellent InterCity network (including its sister company, GreatSights New Zealand). We highly recommend InterCity.

We flew on Air New Zealand from Hamilton to Christchurch. Starting at Christchurch, we travelled via the InterCity network to Dunedin, then came back to Christchurch, then went to Mt Cook Village, and then went to Queenstown, the most common jumping off point to Milford Sound. Christchurch in this travel plan wasn't a ‘star’ in the constellation of places we wanted to visit, just a place we'd pass through more or less. As it turned out, I'm glad we visited Christchurch.

Christchurch is the largest city on the South Island. By that reason alone, as well as others, it's one of New Zealand's most important cities. Alas, it is, as we all know, the locus of the devastating 2011 earthquake or, more correctly, of several recent earthquakes and numerous aftershocks. In the 22 February 2011 earthquake reportedly 185 people lost their lives. Damage has been extensive. Tens of thousands of residents have left the city. More will no doubt do so when they’ve built new homes in outlying suburbs or satellite towns, some of which are reportedly growing by leaps and bounds. Whilst awaiting our Dunedin-bound bus in Christchurch, we met a Christchurch gentleman whose retirement home had been declared ‘uninhabitable’ because of the earthquake. He'd had to move subsequently 14 times before finding a new retirement home.

The central business district (‘CBD’) has been devastated. Following the initial earthquakes numerous, precarious structures were demolished, often through controlled implosions. Other buildings and parking structures remain, yet to be demolished or strengthened. The fate of a number of CBD buildings has yet to be determined, as can be seen here. Except for those few pre-earthquake buildings of 8+ stories that will pass muster vis-à-vis earthquake sturdiness, Christchurch high rises in the future won't be higher than 7 stories. An über authority, the Canterbury Earthquake Recovery Authority ('CERA'), oversees the demolition and rebuild efforts underway in the CBD and throughout the Christchurch metro area.

At the national level, it’s anticipated that new building codes will be enacted for residential and non-residential structures. Multi-story structures will come under more rigorous standards than single-story structures. As I’ve mentioned before, outside of the big three cities — Auckland, Wellington, and Christchurch — Kiwis have tended to prefer single-story homes so presumably most homes won’t require much, if any, retrofitting. Christchurch homes may, however, require repair (if they've not already been repaired).

Larger structures may well require retrofitting. After a grace period, multi-story structures in New Zealand not in compliance with the new codes will have to be vacated and demolished. The details of this program, as I understand it, are still under discussion, but I gather that there is a common resolve that building structural codes be revised to make the preceding earthquake codes even more rigorous. I have the impression that affected parties will have several years within which to bring buildings into compliance. Whatever happens regarding building codes, New Zealand — especially Christchurch — is apparently in great need of people in the construction trades (reportedly especially masonry). Apparently the national government contemplates instituting waivers or expedited procedures for issuing visas to those in construction trades.

Meanwhile, life continues and returns to Christchurch. Round about the city one finds largely intact residential districts with an occasional home or apartment building abandoned, presumably awaiting demolition or retrofitting. In some instances the building superstructure is largely intact but the foundation requires replacement. Commercial structures in outlying areas occasionally have buttressing or give evidence of abandonment.

The CBD appears to have suffered the most apocalyptic damage, because of numerous high rises or because of the presence of old but beautiful buildings unable to withstand the earthquakes. One can’t help but wonder whether architectural buttressing ought to become more fashionable in cities built in earthquake prone areas.

Christchurch wasn’t regarded as earthquake prone when the town site was developed. The city passed through the 20th Century comparatively free of the effects of earthquakes and tremors. Kiwis, I’m told, expected the ‘Big One’ to hit Wellington. A big earthquake may still hit Wellington. The capital city is built in an area of several active faults. Christchurch, alas, was developed from the mid-1800s over a ‘blind fault’, so called because blind faults aren't evident, even to geologists (except petroleum geologists using seismic technologies in their search for oil). Blind faults most readily occur under sediment out-washed from nearby hills or mountains. The outwash of sediment covers the fault. So unless petroleum geologists happen to discover them, we're still vulnerable to earthquakes along blind faults.

No one has suggested that Christchurch be abandoned. The city will rebuild itself, to some extent with help from outsiders (including donors near and far and Kiwi taxpayers). More often, in any event, local initiatives set the tone, texture, and speed of the renaissance. Indeed, the Lonely Planet in its Best in Travel 2013 designated Christchurch among the top 10 ‘must see’ cities worldwide, apparently because of the renaissance afoot in Christchurch. There's a good deal of ‘can do’ energy and 'let's see' imagination at work in the city.

Christchurch’s namesake Anglican cathedral, at the heart of the city, awaits a final determination whether it can be rebuilt or whether it must be destroyed. Apparently, there is strong sentiment to resist the initial, provisional edict that the cathedral be condemned. The Catholic Basilica of the Blessed Sacrament was also extensively damaged. The Catholic community has decided to try to preserve two walls (or facades) of the basilica in what otherwise will be a new structure. This decision has given additional impetus and encouragement to those wishing to save the Anglican cathedral. In any event, the Anglican cathedral community has decided to erect (with requisite governmental approval) a so-called ‘Cardboard Cathedral' to serve until a renewed or new cathedral is built.*

When Jean and I were in Christchurch we visited the CBD's ‘container mall’ called ‘Re:START’. There are about 50 establishments in this mall, including banks and restaurants. It was quite busy the afternoon we shopped there. Around the city one will find shipping containers modified to serve as cafes, banks, shops, and even as buttresses (See photo 13.E, below). Because so much of the CBD is fenced off in a so-called 'Red Zone', downtown establishments have had to re-establish themselves elsewhere. Even Intercity’s Christchurch bus station is now uptown, on Bealey Street, where a container on a gravel lot serves bus customers, with the buses simply stopping curbside on Bealey Street.

In the CBD many museums (including the Christchurch Art Gallery) and cultural establishments, such as the City Library (See photo 13.G), remain closed awaiting refitting or demolition. Thankfully, the Canterbury Museum (a museum with a regional history focus) is open, as are the adjacent, beautiful Botanic Gardens. We enjoyed both the Canterbury Museum (It's free) and the gardens, also free.

If you fly in or out of Christchurch you might wish to check out the International Antarctic Centre, about a 7-minute walk from the main terminal at Christchurch International Airport. Christchurch for years has been a primary support base for Antarctic exploration and for research stations maintained by a number of nations (including New Zealand and the USA). Jean and I had an enjoyable and edifying visit to the Antarctic Centre. To boot, because we were paying visitors, we were shuttled gratis to our lodging on the periphery of the CBD Red Zone. Despite their being in the Red Zone, Christchurch Cathedral and the recently reopened Ibis Hotel can be viewed (in the case of the cathedral) or accessed (in the case of the Ibis). The Ibis is the first open hotel in the Red Zone.

There are a number of charitable organizations helping Christchurch Kiwis rebuild their lives and their city. Numerous banks operating in New Zealand opened accounts for donations following the 22 February 2011 earthquake. If you’re inclined to make a donation, you might check out Google here to obtain leads on organizations still accepting donations.

I’m no advocate of disaster tourism. On the other hand Christchurch shouldn't be avoided. On the contrary, to partake of the city's energy and imagination is rewarding on its own merits. May God bless the Kiwis in their efforts to build a new Christchurch from the ruin and rubble.

Warm regards,

Tim (& Jean)

*PS A complimentary review of the Cardboard Cathedral appeared in the 2 June 2017 edition of the Wall Street Journal.