13.15 Queenstown: New Zealand's 'Adventure Capital'

 

15.A Clouds Hugging the Remarkables Range beyond Queenstown

On our recent travels in New Zealand, Jean and I spent three nights in Queenstown, in the inland southwest of the South Island. It’s set at the foot of mountains bordering Lake Wakatipu. It’s hardly a typical Kiwi town. It’s substance, somewhat like Rotorua on the North Island, is to serve as a tourist center. Should non-Kiwis trouble themselves to come to Queenstown?

It turns out that it’s no big trouble coming to Queenstown. It’s been a tourist draw for some time. Although it sustains a population count just under 30,000, it merits an international airport served by Air New Zealand, Jetstar, Quantas, and Virgin Australia. Besides air connections to various New Zealand destinations, Queenstown sports competitive year-round connections with Sydney, Australia, and seasonal competitive connections to Brisbane and Melbourne. The Aussies are drawn virtually year-round to Queenstown, but especially in the winter. Wintertime sees increased traffic because of several ski runs and resorts just outside Queenstown.

Queenstown is a jumping off point for numerous diversions besides skiing: bungee-jumping, hiking (or ‘tracking’ in Kiwiese), mountain biking, hang gliding, jet-boating, and so forth, not to mention just plain old sight-seeing. Those who don’t wish to sightsee via auto or bus can avail themselves of balloon, fixed-wing, or helicopter tour services. There are numerous restaurants, cafes, bars, and shops in Queenstown, not to mention a considerable range of overnight accommodations. 

We spent one full day in Queenstown, walking around, dropping into a few stores, and ascending Bob’s Peak via the Skyline gondola service. Skyline is the same outfit that runs a comparable operation in Rotorua and elsewhere. At the top there’s a restaurant and conference center as well as a café and store. The aforementioned gondola run and another facilitate hang gliders, mountain bikers, and lugers. The Kiwi luge course isn’t via a metal tube as found, say, in the Alps but via a paved track available for year-round use. Queenstown Skyline offers two luge tracks, one for beginners and one for advanced lugers. We didn't luge but went tracking, enjoying quirky framed viewpoints such as the one evident in photo 15.N, below.

While we enjoyed Queenstown and Skyline Queenstown, our primary reason for coming to Queenstown was to visit Milford Sound. The air distance between Milford Sound and Queenstown is 71 km or 44 miles. Yet a non-stop road journey between the two points takes about 4 hours one-way. I’ll cover our bus expedition to and cruise on Milford Sound in a subsequent post.

Until then…

Warm regards,

Tim (& Jean)

P.S. 16 July 2017. Queenstown and, more generally, the southern half of the South Island is a great place for viewing (and photographing the stars), as made evident in photos accompanying this New Zealand Herald article on the photography of Jake Scott-Gardner and Joanna Scott.

P.P.S. 14 April 2018. A Japan Times article carried a story about a sake that is being brewed in Queenstown, which has the first and only sake brewery in New Zealand. The sake is called Zenkuro (roughly meaning 'all black'), in a tip of the hat or the glass to New Zealand's All Black rugby team.

15.B Downtown Queenstown

15.C Shopping Street, Queenstown

15.D Lake Wakatipu from Queenstown Promenade

15.E Queenstown Beach from Promenade

15.F Native Tree in Queenstown Gardens

15.G Life-Size Moa Statue, Queenstown

15.H Bob's Peak

15.I Skyline Gondola Connecting Queenstown & Bob's Peak

15.J Lake Wakatipu from Bob's Peak

15.K Queenstown & Lake Wakatipu

15.L Queenstown & Frankton Arm (or Bay)

15.M Helicopter on Bob's Peak

15.N The Ben Lomond Scenic Preserve Seen Thru a Frame

13.14 Mt Cook Village: In the Clouds & Beyond

14.A Into the Southern Alps from the Basin & Range Zone (Photo shot from a Great Sights Bus / Forgive the Reflectance)

What if you came all the way from West Yorkshire, England, to Mt Cook, New Zealand, and Mt Cook wasn’t there? Something of the sort happened to a lady Jean and I encountered in Aoraki/Mt Cook National Park, which we visited three weeks ago ('Aoraki' = cloud piercer). To be sure, the mountain was still there, but it was enshrouded in clouds and often lashed with wind-driven rain. So even the shoulders of Mt Cook had become a 'no go' zone of wet, slippery snow and ice. This lady had hoped to spend a night in a mountain hut, but she had decided she wouldn't attempt that, given what the weather had delivered. At least she had heroic aspirations… and made the best of her hard-earned vacation by trekking around, as did we, on valley walking 'tracks', as the Kiwis call them.

The Yorkshire lady told us she saved up money to come out to New Zealand about once every 3 to 5 years. Wisely, she hadn't gambled her money all on one place, having plans (as did we) to travel to Queenstown. I was glad that we hadn’t had to come so far, starting out in Te Awamutu days earlier and having come by a Great Sights bus from Christchurch. We would spend a night at the Aoraki/Mt Cook Alpine Lodge, which has a lounge (with a community kitchen) providing a spectacular view of Mt Cook, at least when Mt Cook is available for viewing. 

As you can see from the accompanying shots, Mt Cook was unavailable. But all we had to do was turn away from Mt Cook and view to the southeast the Burnett Mountains. They are less photogenic than Mt Cook, to be sure, but bereft of clouds they were ready to be captured in their lineup. I took a certain delight in observing such a vivid contrast between the Southern Alps and the Burnetts, the Alps capturing the moisture-laden clouds driven in from the Tasman Sea and the Burnetts (further east) living in the ‘rain shadow’ of the likes of Mt Cook. The contrast is telling in the skies between photos 14.C and 14.D, below, taken from almost the same spot moments apart. They depict the dramatic effects of mountain rain-shadowing.

Mt Cook is New Zealand’s tallest, at 3,724 meters (12,218 ft). It sits in a national park established in October 1953 shortly after Edmund Hillary  with Tenzing Norgay, his Sherpa guide, became the first to successfully ascend Mt Everest, on 29 May 1953. Hillary was knighted by Queen Elizabeth II. He rightly became a hero among not only Kiwis. His charitable activities were extensive and thoughtful. And in the Hermitage, the largest of the hotels in Mt Cook Village, there is a museum devoted, among other things, to Sir Edmund’s mountaineering and subsequent careers. Sir Edmund used Mt Cook as his primary training ground in mountaineering. Paid admission to the museum will also afford entry into what is billed as the world’s 'southernmost planetarium'. Because of the rain, we were more than happy to pay to enter the museum and to visit repeatedly -- as permitted -- the planetarium.

The morning before we left, the rains ceased more or less but the wind continued to howl over the mountains and through the valleys. Nonetheless, we did get in a brief walk on a track. We almost made it to the foot of a glacier, but had to turn back in order to catch our Queenstown-bound bus. We’d seen glacial ‘feet’ before and anyway we regarded it as a pleasant, affordable luxury to travel around New Zealand in a bus, not having to focus on driving.

The photos accompanying this post will almost surely disappoint, but our visit didn’t. The austere and grand beauty accompanied by the wind and the rain helped remind us that we are, as human beings, passing through. And that we did, leaving the Southern Alps behind (at least for a while) and re-entering what I’ve loosely called the ‘basin and range zone’ on our way to Queenstown. Of Queenstown I’ll have more to say in the next post.

But before quitting this post, I must mention that our Yorkshire co-visitor did find some reward in her venture into the national park. GreatSights (of the InterCity family of bus lines) coordinates with a helicopter company, whereby passengers inbound to the park can alight at a roadside helo pad to take a helicopter ride, weather permitting. The helo eventually deposits passengers at their destination hotel in the park. From the pad helo passengers are taken into the mountains, where they touch down on a glacier. Passengers can get out, throw snowballs, and take photos, of course. At NZ$250 per passenger when arranged thru Great Sights, the ride is undoubtedly a bargain. Jean and I took a pass. So there are no mountain-top photos in this post. But you can see such photos here.

As a somewhat puny consolation prize I've concluded the shots below with one of light shadowing in the basin and range zone to the east of the Southern Alps. Enjoy the dark and glow!

Warm regards,

Tim (& Jean)

PS In the rain shadowlands east of the Southern Alps there are great opportunities to view the magnificent night skies of the Southern Hemisphere. Indeed, in the Mackenzie a dark sky preserve has been established to facilitate the viewing of the night skies. A 15 June 2017 article in the New Zealand Herald published night sky photos of one Kiwi photographer, Paul Wilson, that are well worth a look-see, here.



14.B  Mountain Steam Bed

14.C Aoraki/Mt Cook Nat'l Park Visitor Center

14 .D From the Visitor Center Towards the Burnett Mountains

14.E Clouds Around Mt Cook's Flanks

14.F Mt Cook in the Murk

14.G More Murk from the Visitor Center

14.H The Hooker Valley (in the Distance) from the Hermitage

14.I On the Kea Point Track Towards Mt Cook

14.J The Mueller Glacier as Seen from the Kea Point Track

14.K Leaving Mt Cook Village

14.L Light Shadowing in the Basin & Range Zone

13.13 Christchurch: Now & Again

13.A  Christchurch Cathedral, 29 March 2013

When Jean and I were afforded a week’s vacation midway during our 6-month New Zealand stay, we decided we would travel to the South Island. Other than heading for Aoraki/Mt Cook National Park and Milford Sound (in Fiordland National Park), we had no particular objectives in mind. We just wanted to tour around — and by bus, so that we could cover a good deal of territory in a relaxed fashion. We booked bus transportation on the excellent InterCity network (including its sister company, GreatSights New Zealand). We highly recommend InterCity.

We flew on Air New Zealand from Hamilton to Christchurch. Starting at Christchurch, we travelled via the InterCity network to Dunedin, then came back to Christchurch, then went to Mt Cook Village, and then went to Queenstown, the most common jumping off point to Milford Sound. Christchurch in this travel plan wasn't a ‘star’ in the constellation of places we wanted to visit, just a place we'd pass through more or less. As it turned out, I'm glad we visited Christchurch.

Christchurch is the largest city on the South Island. By that reason alone, as well as others, it's one of New Zealand's most important cities. Alas, it is, as we all know, the locus of the devastating 2011 earthquake or, more correctly, of several recent earthquakes and numerous aftershocks. In the 22 February 2011 earthquake reportedly 185 people lost their lives. Damage has been extensive. Tens of thousands of residents have left the city. More will no doubt do so when they’ve built new homes in outlying suburbs or satellite towns, some of which are reportedly growing by leaps and bounds. Whilst awaiting  our Dunedin-bound bus in Christchurch, we met a Christchurch gentleman whose retirement home had been declared ‘uninhabitable’ because of the earthquake. He'd had to move subsequently 14 times before finding a new retirement home.

The central business district (‘CBD’) has been devastated. Following the initial earthquakes numerous, precarious structures were demolished, often through controlled implosions. Other buildings and parking structures remain, yet to be demolished or strengthened. The fate of a number of CBD buildings has yet to be determined, as can be seen here. Except for those few pre-earthquake buildings of 8+ stories that will pass muster vis-à-vis earthquake sturdiness, Christchurch high rises in the future won't be higher than 7 stories. An über authority, the Canterbury Earthquake Recovery Authority ('CERA'), oversees the demolition and rebuild efforts underway in the CBD and throughout the Christchurch metro area.

At the national level, it’s anticipated that new building codes will be enacted for residential and non-residential structures. Multi-story structures will come under more rigorous standards than single-story structures. As I’ve mentioned before, outside of the big three cities — Auckland, Wellington, and Christchurch — Kiwis have tended to prefer single-story homes so presumably most homes won’t require much, if any, retrofitting. Christchurch homes may, however, require repair (if they've not already been repaired). 

Larger structures may well require retrofitting. After a grace period, multi-story structures in New Zealand not in compliance with the new codes will have to be vacated and demolished. The details of this program, as I understand it, are still under discussion, but I gather that there is a common resolve that building structural codes be revised to make the preceding earthquake codes even more rigorous. I have the impression that affected parties will have several years within which to bring buildings into compliance. Whatever happens regarding building codes, New Zealand — especially Christchurch — is apparently in great need of people in the construction trades (reportedly especially masonry). Apparently the national government contemplates instituting waivers or expedited procedures for issuing visas to those in construction trades.

Meanwhile, life continues and returns to Christchurch. Round about the city one finds largely intact residential districts with an occasional home or apartment building abandoned, presumably awaiting demolition or retrofitting. In some instances the building superstructure is largely intact but the foundation requires replacement. Commercial structures in outlying areas occasionally have buttressing or give evidence of abandonment.

The CBD appears to have suffered the most apocalyptic damage, because of numerous high rises or because of the presence of old but beautiful buildings unable to withstand the earthquakes. One can’t help but wonder whether architectural buttressing ought to become more fashionable in cities built in earthquake prone areas.

Christchurch wasn’t regarded as earthquake prone when the town site was developed. The city passed through the 20th Century comparatively free of the effects of earthquakes and tremors. Kiwis, I’m told, expected the ‘Big One’ to hit Wellington. A big earthquake may still hit Wellington. The capital city is built in an area of several active faults. Christchurch, alas, was developed from the mid-1800s over a ‘blind fault’, so called because blind faults aren't evident, even to geologists (except petroleum geologists using seismic technologies in their search for oil). Blind faults most readily occur under sediment out-washed from nearby hills or mountains. The outwash of sediment covers the fault. So unless petroleum geologists happen to discover them, we're still vulnerable to earthquakes along blind faults.

No one has suggested that Christchurch be abandoned. The city will rebuild itself, to some extent with help from outsiders (including donors near and far and Kiwi taxpayers). More often, in any event, local initiatives set the tone, texture, and speed of the renaissance. Indeed, the Lonely Planet in its Best in Travel 2013 designated Christchurch among the top 10 ‘must see’ cities worldwide, apparently because of the renaissance afoot in Christchurch. There's a good deal of ‘can do’ energy and 'let's see' imagination at work in the city.

Christchurch’s namesake Anglican cathedral, at the heart of the city, awaits a final determination whether it can be rebuilt or whether it must be destroyed. Apparently, there is strong sentiment to resist the initial, provisional edict that the cathedral be condemned. The Catholic Basilica of the Blessed Sacrament was also extensively damaged. The Catholic community has decided to try to preserve two walls (or facades) of the basilica in what otherwise will be a new structure. This decision has given additional impetus and encouragement to those wishing to save the Anglican cathedral. In any event, the Anglican cathedral community has decided to erect (with requisite governmental approval) a so-called ‘Cardboard Cathedral' to serve until a renewed or new cathedral is built.*

When Jean and I were in Christchurch we visited the CBD's ‘container mall’ called ‘Re:START’. There are about 50 establishments in this mall, including banks and restaurants. It was quite busy the afternoon we shopped there. Around the city one will find shipping containers modified to serve as cafes, banks, shops, and even as buttresses (See photo 13.E, below). Because so much of the CBD is fenced off in a so-called 'Red Zone', downtown establishments have had to re-establish themselves elsewhere. Even Intercity’s Christchurch bus station is now uptown, on Bealey Street, where a container on a gravel lot serves bus customers, with the buses simply stopping curbside on Bealey Street.

In the CBD many museums (including the Christchurch Art Gallery) and cultural establishments, such as the City Library (See photo 13.G), remain closed awaiting refitting or demolition. Thankfully, the Canterbury Museum (a museum with a regional history focus) is open, as are the adjacent, beautiful Botanic Gardens. We enjoyed both the Canterbury Museum (It's free) and the gardens, also free.

If you fly in or out of Christchurch you might wish to check out the International Antarctic Centre, about a 7-minute walk from the main terminal at Christchurch International Airport. Christchurch for years has been a primary support base for Antarctic exploration and for research stations maintained by a number of nations (including New Zealand and the USA). Jean and I had an enjoyable and edifying visit to the Antarctic Centre. To boot, because we were paying visitors, we were shuttled gratis to our lodging on the periphery of the CBD Red Zone. Despite their being in the Red Zone, Christchurch Cathedral and the recently reopened Ibis Hotel can be viewed (in the case of the cathedral) or accessed (in the case of the Ibis). The Ibis is the first open hotel in the Red Zone.

There are a number of charitable organizations helping Christchurch Kiwis rebuild their lives and their city. Numerous banks operating in New Zealand opened accounts for donations following the 22 February 2011 earthquake. If you’re inclined to make a donation, you might check out Google here to obtain leads on organizations still accepting donations.

I’m no advocate of disaster tourism. On the other hand Christchurch shouldn't be avoided. On the contrary, to partake of the city's energy and imagination is rewarding on its own merits. May God bless the Kiwis in their efforts to build a new Christchurch from the ruin and rubble.

Warm regards,

Tim (& Jean)

*PS A complimentary review of the Cardboard Cathedral appeared in the 2 June 2017 edition of the Wall Street Journal.

13.B Avon River, Christchurch

13.C Building with Buttressing, Christchurch

13.D Building with Buttressing

13.E Theatre Facade With Container Buttressing

13.F Abandoned Shops

13.G Closed Central Library, Christchurch

 13.H CBD Street Scene

13.I Rear of Christchurch Cathedral

13.J Canterbury Museum,  Christchurch

13.K Punting on the Avon River in the Botanic Gardens

13.L Christchurch Botanic Gardens Walkway

13.N Eastward Along Cashel Street

13.O Along Cashel Street in Re:START Mall

13.P Looking Northward, Re:START Shopping Mall

(Reopened Ibis Hotel in the Distance)

13.Q Cafe in Re:START Mall (Excuse the Shadows,  Please)

13.R Shops in Re:START Mall

13.S Rose Artwork, Christchurch Botanic Garden