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Thursday, December 18, 2014

14.07 Napier: Art Deco Capital of the World?

7.A Southward View of Marine Parade, T&G Building and Masonic Hotel to the
Right and Municipal Bandshell and Pergola to the Left

 A few weeks after arriving the first time in New Zealand in 2013, Jean and I took our first trip beyond our new Kiwi 'home'. We traveled to Napier (See Blogpost 13.03) upon the recommendation of friends. We weren't disappointed. Art Deco and wineries are the two magnets that draw tourists to Napier. 

What can I say about Art Deco a la Napier now that we're back, this time for a three-month stay? I'll confine myself to a few remarks. There are several books and guides available to Art Deco aficionados, as a viewing of Amazon.com or Fishpond.co.nz would suggest. Whatever the guides say, I'll say this: There is no one Napier building in Art Deco style that would compel a visit, perhaps not even by an aficionado. 

About a half year ago we were in Spain, which (as it happens) is on the opposite side of the globe from New Zealand. While in Spain we visited Barcelona, which has adopted the still-under-construction La Sagrada Familia Basilica as the city's icon (A Kiwi serves as the basilica project's 'Executive Architect'!). To visit Barcelona without seeing the basilica (at least on the first visit) would be almost crazy or criminal. But while I have my Art Deco favorites in Napier, I've yet to encounter a building here that it would be criminally crazy not to see.  No one building, Art Deco or otherwise, in Napier is extraordinary.

7.B Intersection of Emerson and Dalton Streets in Napier's CBD
The second thing to be said about Napier a la Art Deco is this: Napier's assemblage of buildings and Napier's built environment in toto constitute Napier's architectural attraction. That assemblage and that environment are extraordinarily pleasing. In essential ways, contra La Sagrada (for example), the Art Deco buildings in Napier are quite ordinary. But--and I mean this as a high compliment--the ordinary in Napier has been done extraordinarily well.


7.C Napier Municipal Theatre Tennyson Street Facade
7.D Pergola in the Beach Domain with T&G Building on Left across Marine Parade
7.E Art Deco Centre7 Tennyson Street 
7.F Art Deco Centre Fenestration

Thirdly, Art Deco is hardly the only modern (post-1900) style that's attractive. It's one of several modern styles which recognize that buildings can't be reduced to mere function anymore than men and women can be considered mere machines. Buildings, like people, aren't machines. Yet Art Deco embraces modern technology. It does so, I would argue, while also supporting human longings for beauty, meaning, and remembrance. Hence, within Art Deco there is an allowance for tradition. Art Deco comes in stylized variations like Spanish Mission and Stripped Classical, or even (I suppose) a subdued Italian Renaissance style. Moreover, within Art Deco there is a fondness for ornamentation and bold colours, which vivify Napier's urban palette (despite some contemporary clutter).


7.G Stripped Classical vs 'Plain Vanilla' Art Deco
along Hastings Street, Napier
7.H Stripped Classical at 58 Tennyson Street
7.I Stripped Classical with Maori Motifs at 100 Hastings Street
7.J 61 Tennyson Street in Italian Renaissance Style
7.K Hastings Street Facade of the Criterion Hotel in Spanish Mission Style with Clutter at Pedestrian Level

7.L  Masonic HotelTennyson Street Facade
7.M Facade Detail at Masonic Hotel Entrance
7.N Masonic Hotel, Marine Parade Facade

Fourthly, the assemblage of Art Deco buildings in Napier has survived because the community has worked to preserve its treasury of buildings and to enhance the environment of Napier. A community-based Art Deco Trust was formed in 1985 to preserve Napier's Art Deco heritage. Of the Art Deco buildings still standing in Napier over 110 are found in the CBD ('Central Business District'), according to an inventory published by the municipality and the Art Deco Trust. Two Art Deco buildings are found in Napier's Taradale district and six in the Ahuriri district. Twenty-four Art Deco buildings were destroyed before Napier's preservation efforts took hold.


7.O Ellison & Duncan Building, Ahuriri
7.P Post Office Building, Erected in 1930 and One of the Few CBD Buildings to Survive the 1931 Earthquake
Fifthly, it's perhaps understandable that locals might overstate the significance of Napier's Art Deco inheritance. At times Napier has billed itself as the 'Art Deco Capital of the World'. In 2006 interested parties formally launched an effort to have Napier designated as a UNESCO World Heritage Site because of its Art Deco treasure. That effort failed in 2011. In merely worldly terms, Napier may not be at the top of the heap. Anyway, what would 'capital of the world' mean in the context of any architectural style?

Sixthly, it's remarkable that a New Zealand town, far from Paris, where Art Deco originated, should in fact be one of the very few places that has an assemblage of Art Deco buildings that rewards a visit. Napier may not be 'The Art Deco Capital of the World' but it is an Art Deco capital. It might be argued that if the earthquake of 1931 hadn't happened, Napier would never have acquired its treasure of Art Deco buildings. But the earthquake happened and by dint of human determination the town's CBD was rebuilt. By design Art Deco prevailed in the rebuilding. Napier has every cause and right to bask in its Art Deco glory.

Finally and no surprise, Napier has turned its circumstance to its advantage, to be sure, luring tourists because of its Art Deco treasure. Yet I sense that, aside from the inevitable commercializing of circumstance (a human trait not to be despised), the community genuinely enjoys celebrating its Art Deco heritage. The celebration is good because, thanks be to God, life can be good. Following below is a YouTube video sales pitch for Napier's Art Deco Weekend, which has been celebrated each February for somewhat over twenty-five years. I've included it in this post not least because it provides interior glimpses I'm otherwise unable to provide. And I hope it suggests the locals, as well as visitors, have fun a la Art Deco.



In a subsequent blogpost I hope to share images of my favorite and not-so-favorite Napier Art Deco buildings. In the meantime and in any event...

Warm regards,
Tim (& Jean)

7.Q Entrance Details, Gladstone Chambers, 50 Tennyson Street
7.R Hawke's Bay Chambers, 78-82 Emerson Street
7.S Former State Theatre in Spanish Mission Style and Apricot Splendour, Dalton & Dickens Streets
7.T 'Spirit of Napier' Statue in Napier's Marine Parade























Thursday, December 11, 2014

14.06 Ocean Beach & Havelock North: Findings & Discoveries


6.A View from Ahuriri (in Napier) towards Westshore

Often in life we are searching. In searches there are three possible results. We don't find what we're looking for. We do find what we're looking for. Or, we actually discover something, great or small, something we weren't precisely looking for but which we found in spite of or, perhaps, because of our search for something else. Successful searches, in other words, yield findings and, more rarely, discoveries. Discoveries come with a measure of surprise.

The photo above seems to hold no surprises. It was taken from a shore in the Ahuriri district of Napier, where Jean and I are currently living. From the photo you might deduce that this location isn't particularly swimmer-friendly. Indeed, it isn't. Napier's main waterfront is little better. It has what's called a 'shingle beach'. The photo below shows what that's like. The shingle beach and the reportedly treacherous waters immediately offshore insure that people don't come to Napier to swim or surf.

6.B Typical Beach Aggregate along Napier's Waterfront


Because we've been anticipating at least one visitor who would want to go swimming, Jean and I decided we needed to search for a swimmer-friendly beach. Last Saturday we headed south out of Napier to a place called Ocean Beach, reported to have a broad and long sandy beach. As the crow flies, Ocean Beach is about thirty kilometers (or eighteen miles) from our apartment in Ahuriri. The drive there without pause took us somewhat over an hour. The photos below depict some of what we saw at the beach.

6.C Motu O Kura (Bare Island) in the Distance and Surf and Sand Close-at-hand

6.D Driftwood at Ocean Beach

6.E Bringing a Surf Boat Ashore with Cape Kidnappers Headlands Beyond

6.F Footprints and Surf at Ocean Beach

As the photos suggest, Ocean Beach wasn't crowded. There were no sunbathers or swimmers, just some surfers and walkers. As is seemingly typical in New Zealand, a surf life saving club is housed at the beach, affording a measure of accommodation and safety to visitors. I suppose most people seen at Ocean Beach are visitors. The village there appears to have no more than a score of cottages (or 'bachs' in Kiwiese). Yet, according to Surf Forecast.com, Ocean Beach can become crowded. 

The trip to and from the beach had its own unanticipated compensations. Here, below, are some photos of the Maraetotara and Tukituki hinterlands along Ocean Beach Road, which connects Ocean Beach to the world. We passed a number of vineyards and sheep stations. The country was and is a bit dry for this time of year, but no matter. New Zealand is always beautiful.


6.G A View from Ocean Beach Road

6.H Another View

6.I A Countryside Beauty

6.J Te Mata Peak in the Distance; Tukituki River in Foreground

6.K Hills and Brush

When Jean and I turned back from Ocean Beach, we elected to take a slight detour into the town oHavelock North,  a suburb of Hastings. Havelock North, Hastings, and Napier all take their names from men prominent in 19th Century Imperial India. You won't see a statue of Henry Havelock, the town's namesake, anywhere in town (You could travel to Trafalgar Square in London for that). Instead the town's memorial green is dedicated to the town's war dead, more than ever remembered in 2014, a century since the onset of WWI. New Zealand's participation in that war through ANZAC (the Australian and New Zealand Army Corps) is solemnly remembered every April 25th (See Blogpost 13.16) and is invariably remembered in New Zealand towns and cities with memorials of one sort or another.


6.L Memorial Cenotaph and Christmas Tree, Havelock North

'Havelock North Village', as it's called, serves as the prosperous town's central business district ('CBD') or downtown. Unusual for Kiwi towns is the prominence of one of its churches, St Luke's Anglican. Its general appearance reminds me of churches I've seen in Sweden, of all places.

6.M St Luke's Anglican Church, Havelock North

6.N St Luke's Green

6.O Tower & Buttressing, St Luke's Anglican Church


Two aspects of the St Luke's edifice deserve comment. Firstly, one doesn't ordinarily see New Zealand churches with towers. Unless a congregation has the means to erect a highly earthquake-resistant tower, a tower won't be erected. Substantial towers are mostly found on cathedrals (See here, for example). St Luke's is an exception. Secondly, the church building is exceptional in having buttressing. Given the frequency of earthquakes in New Zealand, one wonders why more buildings, sacred or secular, don't incorporate buttressing.

Before leaving Havelock North we patronized a shop or two and a craft fair being held in the CBD. Currently there seem to be numerous fairs in and about the Hawke's Bay Region, probably because of the impending Christmas holiday. On our way out of town we discovered a 'figgery', Te Mata Figs, where we purchased dried figs and a walnut-and-fig log marketed as 'salame di fichi'. Apparently the mild, comparatively dry climate of this part of New Zealand favors fig growing, not to mention a wide variety of other fruits. The Hawke's Bay Region is one of New Zealand's primary fruit growing regions. A review of New Zealand's 'fruit-growing possibilities' may be found here.

The one possibility precluded in our fact-finding trek to Ocean Beach was the possibility of a sand beach near Ahuriri. Sunday, following our outing to Ocean Beach, on a walkabout Jean and I discovered a sand beach in Westshore, the neighborhood just visible across the waters in the lead photo (6.A), above. The beach doesn't have the sunny sand colour of Ocean Beach, nor its extent, nor its wild setting. But it's within walking distance of our apartment and it, too, hosts a surf life saving club. We had traveled some distance only to discover something suitable virtually right under our noses. Nonetheless, we'll probably return to Ocean Beach, at least once, just as we've returned to New Zealand. The views are great and perhaps there's something to be discovered along the way.

Warm regards,
Tim (& Jean)

P.S. This past Tuesday Jean went the distance to see patients in Wairoa.  She and others employed by the Hawke's Bay District Health Board ('HBDHB') were flown to the clinic and small hospital that the HBDHB maintains in Wairoa. Here's a picture of the Air Napier plane in which she flew, providing her first experience in what I call a 'puddle jumper'. The experience in the air and in Wairoa was a good one.


6.P Air Napier Piper PA31 Navajo

6.Q Air Traffic Control Tower @ Hawke's Bay Airport



Friday, December 5, 2014

14.05 Hawke's Bay: National Identity and National Colours

5.A Saffron Clouds over Hawke Bay at Sunset, 27 November 2014, Seen from the Napier Promenade



'To every thing there is a season, and a time to every purpose under the heaven' (Eccl 3:1). That's a Biblical perspective that can give one pause at any time. The verse came to mind when I reviewed the photo above, taken on the walk Jean and I took following our Thanksgiving dinner this past Thursday. For the record, Kiwis don't yet have a thanksgiving day in the national calendar. And if they did it wouldn't come in the spring, presumably, but sometime in the austral autumn, which in New Zealand might well place such a holiday in, say, May or June, when the harvests are well along or even complete. All of which is a back-handed way of saying that we observed Thanksgiving out of season and out of place this year. Yet thanksgiving was due (It's always due).

In a foreign land perhaps because of one's own displacement one can't but notice what's out of place and what's in place. What's in place is what helps identify a place. And what's out of place iswhat else?foreign and perhaps undesirable.

An instance of the out-of-place became evident this past Monday here in the Hawke's Bay Region. A proposal emanated in Hastings, the large nearby town south of Napier. The proposal, which made the front-page headline of the print edition of Hawke's Bay Today, was to form an 'Islamic State of Aotearoa' in the Hawke's Bay Region. The newspaper story didn't clarify whether the proponent of the idea had some specific locale in mind or whether the new state would be more a community of mind than a polity in place. The newspaper report did make clear that the mayor of Hastings didn't regard the Islamic State idea as having any place in New Zealand. Undoubtedly the mayor's sentiments would be seconded by a vast majority of his constituents and by Kiwis elsewhere.

In a democracy elected leaders, among other things, are expected to stay in tune with popular sentiment. If they don't, they and their parties can be punished at the polls. This isn't to say leaders can't and shouldn't ever try to lead public sentiment. On the contrary, a politician who never takes a risk in leading or guiding public opinion or helping the public to resolve a question or issue is unlikely to be held in high regard, at least not for long. In the end in a democracy the people are left to judge the politicians, but history (as it were) judges both peoples and their politicians.

And that brings me to history-in-the-making here in New Zealand, the remaking or retaining of a major national symbol: the New Zealand national flag.  Apparently at the instigation of the current prime minister, Mr John Key, in the coming two years Kiwis will participate in national discussions, debates, and referendums about the national flag. In 2015 they will be asked to decide what alternative design might best supplant the current Kiwi flag. In 2016 they will be asked whether the chosen alternative should in fact supplant the current national flag, shown here below.

5.B The National Flag of New Zealand (Adopted in 1902)

Against a blue field a Union Jack holds the upper left corner, or canton, and a four-star representation of the Southern Cross constellation emblazons the right half of the field. The flag was adopted at a time when New Zealand was a crown colony in the British Empire. While the country has long ago shed that status (in 1907), the country remains in the British Commonwealth of Nations and moreover continues to recognize the British monarch as the head of state. 

One can say that New Zealand has a beautiful and striking flag. Unfortunately, one can't say that it has a distinguished flag. Au contraire. Take a look at the flag of New Zealand's neighbor across the Tasman Sea.

5.C National Flag of Australia (Adopted in 1901)


Despite the presence of the seven-pointed 'Commonwealth Star' beneath the Union Jack and despite the presence of all-white stars on the Australian flag (versus red-with-white-trim stars on the New Zealand flag), the flags of these neighboring countries are very similar. They're easily confused.  For example in 1984 when Australia's prime minister, Mr Bob Hawke, was on an official state visit to Canada, he was greeted in Ottawa by a sea of New Zealand national flags mistakenly held aloft in his honour. That is but one instance of a confusion widely observed and acknowledged by Aussies and Kiwis, whatever their views on traditional or novel flag designs for their homelands.

Suggestions to change the design of the New Zealand national flag apparently first surfaced in the 1970s. The debate has waxed and waned ever since. Just this past October New Zealand's national cabinet agreed on the aforementioned referendums. No doubt it's hoped these referendums and the discussions and debates preceding them will bring some closure to an issue of national identity. Numerous alternative New Zealand flag designs have been proposed over the last 40 years. Some of those designs can be seen here, albeit with some irrelevant flag designs in the mix, including alternative Australian flag designs. 

Apparently Australia has had a flag debate of its own, also starting in the 1970s. At least as reported in Wikipedia the Australia flag debate has been partly fueled by the issue of whether Australia should become a republic, divesting itself of the British crown as head of state. So far as I can discern, the republic-versus-monarchy question plays no role in Kiwi discussions about a new national flag. Indeed, Kiwi advocates of a new national flag adamantly argue that supporting the adoption of a novel flag doesn't entail anti-royalism.


I believe the Kiwi flag issue has nothing to do with who caps New Zealand's polity--whether monarch or president--but who counts in the polity and therefore how the polity is to be identified. When you cut through the verbiage and sort through the novel designs you can't help but come away with the sense that those supporting a novel Kiwi flag want to move away from the Britishness of the current flag--with the Union Jack in the canton. Those who wish to preserve the existing flag argue (among other points) that so many of the novel flag designs incorporate Māori design elements exclusively, implicitly excluding the role of British or other foreign immigrants in creating the New Zealand state, economy, and culture. These immigrants have a name in Kiwi culture: Pākehā. Kiwi culture is in fact a blend of
Māori and Pākehā practices and values cultivated (and at times mis-cultivated) ever since the signing in 1840 of the Treaty of Waitangi, as discussed in Blogpost 13.04. The issue of New Zealand's flag design is an issue of who counts in the polity called New Zealand and how that significance is consigned in the national flag, if you will.


5.D National Flag of Canada (1957-1965), Similar to Predecessors

Arguably fifty years ago the Canadians were wrestling with the same issue. Anglophone Canadians, populating the vast majority of that country's territory, were happy enough to identify with Canada's British heritage. The Canadian national flag incorporated a Union Jack just as the Kiwi flag does today, albeit against a red field. Francophone Canadians, descendants of the French pioneers who created Quebec, bristled under the perception that the national flag emblazoned their status as second-class citizens. After discussion and debate and following royal assent in 1965 Canada adopted the dignified and distinguished flag that serves to this day. Canadians of all persuasions and stations have rallied around their national colours ever since.


5.E National Flag of Canada

If the Kiwis are to adopt a new flag, there will be no point in adopting one unless it erases any suggestion of second-class citizenship and unless it honors both the Māorand Pākehā contributions to New Zealand's polity. How do you do that in a Kiwi context? There are some ready emblems that Kiwi folk recognize, whatever their political or cultural convictions. The two most relevant ones that come to my foreign mind are kiwi bird and silver fern images. Of the two images the latter arguably would better serve on a national flag.

As it happens the national rugby union team, the All Blacks, wear black shirts emblazoned with the silver fern. There is no formal state church in New Zealand but the gatherings for All Black matches come close to being religious observances, observances in which virtually all Kiwis participate (if only indirectly) and in which all Kiwis count as one. The All Blacks thus serve not only as sportsmen but as 'priests' whose rites on the rugby fields serve to unify Kiwis of all places and station. It should come as no surprise that Mr Key, New Zealand's current prime minister, has suggested that the silver fern against a black field serve as the basis and perhaps entirety of a new national flag.

If a new national flag is adopted, hopefully it won't be subject to the kind of confusion that vexes the current flag. It couldn't be regarded as an advance if a new, merely white-on-black Kiwi flag could be readily confused with white-on-black flags favoured by pirates and terror-loving entities. Colours are critical elements of flag design. New Zealand, of all places, needn't bring a limited colour palette to a new flag. 


For everything there is a season and a time. Perhaps the time has come for change; perhaps not. Kiwis, like it or not, are now afforded a chance to decide on their national colours.  Whatever their decision, at least this foreigner will be following their decision with interest, seeing the impending discussions as an outgrowth of the polity or national community stemming from the Treaty of Waitangi, the community called New Zealand or Aotearoa. Long may her colours fly, whatever they be.

Warm regards,

Tim (& Jean)

PS. The news out of Hastings provided an entrée to this week's blogpost. And, while I'm at it, I'll use Hastings as a hook for sharing photos taken on a recent visit to the town. I don't expect to write a post about Hastings, so the photos and comments below will have to serve as my 'hi' and 'goodbye' to Napier's nearest neighbor. Napier and Hastings were both affected by the earthquake of 1931. It should come as no surprise that Hastings, like Napier, has its own treasure of post-1931 buildings exhibiting Art Deco motifs. Here are some examples from the Hasting central business district.


5.F Focal Point Cinema & Cafe on Heretaunga St East

5.G Former Public Trust Office Serving as a Bar & Restaurant

5.H The Hastings Health Centre Queen Street Facade

5.I Hastings Health Centre along Russell St North

5.J Russell St Walkway at the Hastings Central Mall

The people of Hastings don't just bask in their Art Deco heritage. They've obviously made efforts to beautify the town. Perhaps one of the most remarkable efforts in the entire town is the placement of a fountain in what is called the 'Hastings Central Mall'. If you look at the photo immediately below you might say there's nothing particularly remarkable about this fountain. Fountains are urban fixtures all over the world. Moreover, the placement of stylized, stainless-steel Christmas trees in the fountain, you might say, is hardly remarkable. I would agree.

5.K Fountain in Hastings Central Mall

What's remarkable about this fountain is the mainline track of the Palmerston North - Gisborne Line, which goes smack through the middle of the fountain. I've never seen the likes of this anywhere. Nor would I, a railway man, have ever expected to see the likes of it. Yet in a Kiwi context it works. I'd say Hastings is all the better for it. 

5.L View of the Hastings Central Mall Fountain with Hastings Clock Tower in the Background



PPS, 24 March 2016 [New Zealand Time]. This evening the results of New Zealand's final-round flag referendum were announced. Somewhat more than 2.1 million Kiwis, about 68% of eligible voters, participated in this referendum. An earlier referendum, in 2015, had given voters an opportunity to select an alternate to New Zealand's long-standing national flag (See Wikipedia here). The voting public decisively embraced the extant New Zealand flag, 56.6 percent voting for that flag and 43.1 percent (or, according to some sources, 43.2 percent) voting for the alternate flag, shown below.